PREFACE✦

SECTION I.

INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.✦

Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense in the Romish Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of Perfume--Composition of the Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St. Ephræm's Will--Fragrant Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume Drugs--The Art of Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's admirable Remarks on Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of France the principal Seat of the Art--England noted for Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one Perfume--Odor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential Oil or Otto

SECTION II.

Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the Odors:--Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption

SECTION III.

Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of 1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity imported--Statistics, &c.

SECTION IV.

ANIMAL PERFUMES.

Ambergris--Civet--Musk

SECTION V.

SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile

ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar, Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne

SECTION VI.

BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.

Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of Plants

COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Délices--The Court Nosegay--Eau de Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt Bouquet--Extract of Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian Nosegay--English Jockey Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs et Lavender--Delcroix's Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet de Montpellier--Caprice de la Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval Nosegay--Bouquet of all Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du Roi--Bouquet de la Reine Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood Violet--Windsor Castle Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay

SECTION VII.

The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick Castle--Sachet Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet à la Frangipanne--Heliotrope Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet à la Maréchale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers

Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau à Bruler--Eau pour Bruler--Fumigating Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters

SECTION VIII.

PERFUMED SOAP.

Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap Trade in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary Soaps--Curd Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow Soap--Palm Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft Soap--The remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented Soaps

Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor Soap--Brown Windsor Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue, Brown Soaps--Otto of Rose Soap--Tonquin Musk Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood Soap--Spermaceti Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly Soap--Soft or Potash Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap Powders--Rypophagon Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft Soap--Transparent hard Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine Soap--Sulphur Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton Oil Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases

SECTION IX.

EMULSINES.

Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet Emulsion

SECTION X.

MILKS OR EMULSIONS.

Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of Almonds--Milk of Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of Pistachio Nuts--Lait Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers

SECTION XI.

COLD CREAM.

Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation Violet Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold Cream--Cucumber Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip Salve--White Lip Salve--Common Lip Salve

SECTION XII.

POMADES AND OILS.

Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade called Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of Flowers--Crystallized Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade Double, Millefleurs--Pomade à la Heliotrope--Huile Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique

SECTION XIII.

HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.

Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra Dye--Litharge Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous Dye--Brown and Black Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory, Rusma

SECTION XIV.

ABSORBENT POWDERS.

Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink Saucers--Crépon Rouge

SECTION XV.

TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.

Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth Powder--Prepared Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic Chalk--Cuttle-Fish Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's Dentifrice--Rose Tooth Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and Borax--Myrrh with Eau de Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne

SECTION XVI.

HAIR WASHES.

Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous Wash--Egg Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline

Contents of Appendix.

Manufacture of Glycerine

Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils

Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil

Coloring matter of Volatile Oils

Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon

Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil

The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce

Concentrated Elder Water

ARNALL on Spirits of Wine

Purification of Spirits by Filtration

COBB on Otto of Lemons

BASTICK on Benzoic Acid

On the Coloring matters of Flowers

Bleaching Bees' Wax

Chemical Examination of Naples Soap

Manufacture of Soap

How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap

On the Natural Fats

Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness

BASTICK on Fusel Oil

BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor

WAGNER'S Essence of Quince

Preparation of Rum-ether

Artificial Fruit essences

Volatile Oil of Gaultheria

Application of Chemistry to Perfumery

Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts

Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants

French and English Weights and Measures compared

Illustrations.

Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.)

Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.)