CHAPTER XXI. I get my License.--The War Begins.--I become a Jack-of-all-trades.✦

CHAPTER XXII. I try the Alias Business.--Region of Goatees--Boots begin to Appear.--The River Man is Missing.--The Young Man is Discouraged.-- Specimen Water.--A Fine Quality of Smoke.--A Supreme Mistake.--We Inspect the Town.--Desolation Way-traffic.--A Wood-yard.

CHAPTER XXIII. Old French Settlements.--We start for Memphis.--Young Ladies and Russia-leather Bags.

CHAPTER XXIV. I receive some Information.--Alligator Boats.--Alligator Talk.--She was a Rattler to go.--I am Found Out.

CHAPTER XXV. The Devil's Oven and Table.--A Bombshell falls.--No Whitewash.--Thirty Years on the River.-Mississippi Uniforms.--Accidents and Casualties.--Two hundred Wrecks.--A Loss to Literature.--Sunday- Schools and Brick Masons.

CHAPTER XXVI. War Talk.--I Tilt over Backwards.--Fifteen Shot-holes.--A Plain Story.--Wars and Feuds.--Darnell versus Watson.--A Gang and a Woodpile.--Western Grammar.--River Changes.--New Madrid.--Floods and Falls.

CHAPTER XXVII. Tourists and their Note-books.--Captain Hall.--Mrs. Trollope's Emotions.--Hon. Charles Augustus Murray's Sentiment.--Captain Marryat's Sensations.--Alexander Mackay's Feelings.--Mr. Parkman Reports

CHAPTER XXVIII. Swinging down the River.--Named for Me.--Plum Point again.--Lights and Snag Boats.--Infinite Changes.--A Lawless River.--Changes and Jetties.--Uncle Mumford Testifies.--Pegging the River.--What the Government does.--The Commission.--Men and Theories.--“Had them Bad.”--Jews and Prices.

CHAPTER XXIX. Murel's Gang.--A Consummate Villain.--Getting Rid of Witnesses.--Stewart turns Traitor.--I Start a Rebellion.--I get a New Suit of Clothes.--We Cover our Tracks.--Pluck and Capacity.--A Good Samaritan City.--The Old and the New.

CHAPTER XXX. A Melancholy Picture.--On the Move.--River Gossip.--She Went By a-Sparklin'.--Amenities of Life.--A World of Misinformation.-- Eloquence of Silence.--Striking a Snag.--Photographically Exact.--Plank Side-walks.

CHAPTER XXXI. Mutinous Language.--The Dead-house.--Cast-iron German and Flexible English.--A Dying Man's Confession.--I am Bound and Gagged. --I get Myself Free.--I Begin my Search.--The Man with one Thumb. --Red Paint and White Paper.--He Dropped on his Knees.--Fright and Gratitude.--I Fled through the Woods.--A Grisly Spectacle.--Shout, Man, Shout.--A look of Surprise and Triumph.--The Muffled Gurgle of a Mocking Laugh.--How strangely Things happen.--The Hidden Money.

CHAPTER XXXII. Ritter's Narrative.--A Question of Money.--Napoleon.--Somebody is Serious.--Where the Prettiest Girl used to Live.

CHAPTER XXXIII. A Question of Division.--A Place where there was no License.--The Calhoun Land Company.--A Cotton-planter's Estimate.--Halifax and Watermelons.--Jewelled-up Bar-keepers.

CHAPTER XXXIV. An Austere Man.--A Mosquito Policy.--Facts dressed in Tights.--A  swelled Left Ear.

CHAPTER XXXV. Signs and Scars.--Cannon-thunder Rages.--Cave-dwellers. --A Continual Sunday.--A ton of Iron and no Glass.--The Ardent is Saved.--Mule Meat--A National Cemetery.--A Dog and a Shell.--Railroads and Wealth.--Wharfage Economy.--Vicksburg versus The “Gold Dust.”--A Narrative in Anticipation.

CHAPTER XXXVI. The Professor Spins a Yarn.--An Enthusiast in Cattle.--He makes a Proposition.--Loading Beeves at Acapulco.--He was n't Raised to it.--He is Roped In.--His Dull Eyes Lit Up.--Four Aces, you Ass!--He does n't Care for the Gores.

CHAPTER XXXVII. A Terrible Disaster.--The “Gold Dust” explodes her Boilers.--The End of a Good Man.

CHAPTER XXXVIII. Mr. Dickens has a Word.--Best Dwellings and their Furniture.--Albums and Music.--Pantelettes and Conch-shells.--Sugar-candy Rabbits and Photographs.--Horse-hair Sofas and Snuffers.--Rag Carpets and Bridal Chambers.

CHAPTER XXXIX. Rowdies and Beauty.--Ice as Jewelry.--Ice Manufacture.--More Statistics.--Some Drummers.--Oleomargarine versus Butter.--Olive Oil versus Cotton Seed.--The Answer was not Caught. --A Terrific Episode.--A Sulphurous Canopy.--The Demons of War.--The Terrible Gauntlet.

CHAPTER XL. In Flowers, like a Bride.--A White-washed Castle.--A Southern Prospectus.--Pretty Pictures.--An Alligator's Meal.

CHAPTER XLI. The Approaches to New Orleans.--A Stirring Street.--Sanitary Improvements.--Journalistic Achievements.--Cisterns and Wells.

CHAPTER XLII. Beautiful Grave-yards.--Chameleons and Panaceas.--Inhumation and Infection.--Mortality and Epidemics.--The Cost of Funerals.

CHAPTER XLIII. I meet an Acquaintance.--Coffins and Swell Houses.--Mrs. O'Flaherty goes One Better.--Epidemics and Embamming.--Six hundred for a Good Case.--Joyful High Spirits.

CHAPTER XLIV. French and Spanish Parts of the City.--Mr. Cable and the Ancient Quarter.--Cabbages and Bouquets.--Cows and Children.--The Shell Road. The West End.--A Good Square Meal.--The Pompano.--The Broom- Brigade.--Historical Painting.--Southern Speech.--Lagniappe.

CHAPTER XLV. “Waw” Talk.--Cock-Fighting.--Too Much to Bear.--Fine Writing.--Mule Racing.

CHAPTER XLVI. Mardi-Gras.--The Mystic Crewe.--Rex and Relics.--Sir Walter Scott.--A World Set Back.--Titles and Decorations.--A Change.

CHAPTER XLVII. Uncle Remus.--The Children Disappointed.--We Read Aloud. --Mr. Cable and Jean au Poquelin.--Involuntary Trespass.--The Gilded Age.--An Impossible Combination.--The Owner Materializes and Protests.

CHAPTER XLVIII. Tight Curls and Springy Steps.--Steam-plows.--“No. I.” Sugar.--A Frankenstein Laugh.--Spiritual Postage.--A Place where there are no Butchers or Plumbers.--Idiotic Spasms.

CHAPTER XLIX. Pilot-Farmers.--Working on Shares.--Consequences.--Men who Stick to their Posts.--He saw what he would do.--A Day after the Fair.

CHAPTER L. A Patriarch.--Leaves from a Diary.--A Tongue-stopper.--The Ancient Mariner.--Pilloried in Print.--Petrified Truth.

CHAPTER LI. A Fresh “Cub” at the Wheel.--A Valley Storm.--Some Remarks on Construction.--Sock and Buskin.--The Man who never played Hamlet.--I got Thirsty.--Sunday Statistics.

CHAPTER LII. I Collar an Idea.--A Graduate of Harvard.--A Penitent Thief.--His Story in the Pulpit.--Something Symmetrical.--A Literary Artist.--A Model Epistle.--Pumps again Working.--The “Nub” of the Note.

CHAPTER LIII. A Masterly Retreat.--A Town at Rest.--Boyhood's Pranks.--Friends of my Youth.--The Refuge for Imbeciles.--I am Presented with my Measure.

CHAPTER LIV. A Special Judgment.--Celestial Interest.--A Night of Agony.--Another Bad Attack.--I become Convalescent.--I address a Sunday-school.--A Model Boy.

CHAPTER LV. A second Generation.--A hundred thousand Tons of Saddles.--A Dark and Dreadful Secret.--A Large Family.--A Golden-haired Darling. --The Mysterious Cross.--My Idol is Broken.--A Bad Season of Chills and Fever.--An Interesting Cave.

CHAPTER LVI. Perverted History--A Guilty Conscience.--A Supposititious Case.--A Habit to be Cultivated.--I Drop my Burden.--Difference in Time.

CHAPTER LVII. A Model Town.--A Town that Comes up to Blow in the Summer. --The Scare-crow Dean.--Spouting Smoke and Flame.--An Atmosphere that tastes good.--The Sunset Land.

CHAPTER LVIII. An Independent Race.--Twenty-four-hour Towns.--Enchanting Scenery.--The Home of the Plow.--Black Hawk.--Fluctuating Securities. --A Contrast.--Electric Lights.

CHAPTER LIX. Indian Traditions and Rattlesnakes.--A Three-ton Word.--Chimney Rock.--The Panorama Man.--A Good Jump.--The Undying Head. --Peboan and Seegwun.

CHAPTER LX. The Head of Navigation.--From Roses to Snow.--Climatic Vaccination.--A Long Ride.--Bones of Poverty.--The Pioneer of Civilization.--Jug of Empire.--Siamese Twins.--The Sugar-bush.--He Wins his Bride.--The Mystery about the Blanket.--A City that is always a Novelty.--Home again.