Transcriber's note: Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (italics). Page numbers enclosed by curly braces (example: {25}) have been incorporated to facilitate the use of the Index.
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HISTORY OF LACE
Frontispiece.
HISTORY OF LACE
BY
MRS. BURY PALLISER
ENTIRELY REVISED, RE-WRITTEN, AND ENLARGED
UNDER THE EDITORSHIP OF
M. JOURDAIN AND ALICE DRYDEN
WITH 266 ILLUSTRATIONS
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1902
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.
PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION
Nearly thirty years have elapsed since the third edition of the HISTORY OF LACE was published. As it is still the classical work on the subject, and many developments in the Art have taken place since 1875, it seemed desirable that a new and revised edition should be brought out.
The present Revisers have fully felt the responsibility of correcting anything the late Mrs. Palliser wrote; they have therefore altered as little of the text as possible, except where modern research has shown a statement to be faulty.
The chapters on Spain, Alençon and Argentan, and the Introductory chapter on Needlework, have been almost entirely rewritten. Much new matter has been added to Italy, England and Ireland, and the notices of Cretan and Sicilian lace, among others, are new. The original wood-cuts have been preserved with their designations as in the 1875 edition, which differ materially from the first two editions. Nearly a hundred new illustrations have been added, and several portraits to show different fashions of wearing lace.
The Revisers wish to record their grateful thanks to those who have assisted them with information or lace for illustration; especially to Mrs. Hulton, Count Marcello and Cavaliere Michelangelo Jesurum in Venice, Contessa di Brazza and Contessa Cavazza in Italy, M. Destrée in Brussels, Mr. Arthur Blackborne, Salviati & Co., and the Director of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
M. JOURDAIN. ALICE DRYDEN.
London, September, 1901.
CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I.--NEEDLEWORK 1
II.--CUT-WORK 14
III.--LACE 26
IV.--ITALY.--VENICE--MILAN ("Milano la Grande")--FLORENCE--THE ABRUZZI--ROMAGNA--NAPLES--GENOA ("Genova La Superba")-- CANTU--SICILY 45
V.--GREECE--CRETE--TURKEY--MALTA 82
VI.--SPAIN--PORTUGAL 90
VII.--FLANDERS--BRUSSELS (BRABANT)--MECHLIN--ANTWERP--FLANDERS (WEST)--FLANDERS (EAST)--HAINAULT 109
VIII.--FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV. 139
IX.--LOUIS XIV. 150
X.--LOUIS XIV.--continued 161
XI.--LOUIS XV. 171
XII.--LOUIS XVI. TO THE EMPIRE 179
XIII.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF FRANCE--ALENÇON (Dép. Orne), NORMANDY 188
XIV.--ARGENTAN (Dép. Orne) 202
XV.--ISLE DE FRANCE.--PARIS (Dép. Seine)--CHANTILLY (Dép. Oise) 209
XVI.--NORMANDY--SEINE INFÉRIEURE--CALVADOS--BRETAGNE 216
XVII.--VALENCIENNES (Dép. du Nord)--LILLE (Dép. du Nord)--ARRAS (Artois) (Dép. Pas-de-Calais)--BAILLEUL (Dép. du Nord) 230
XVIII.--AUVERGNE AND VÉLAY--LE PUY (Dép. Haute-Loire)--AURILLAC AND MURAT (Dép. Cantal) 242
XIX.--LIMOUSIN--LORRAINE--CHAMPAGNE--BURGUNDY--LYONNOIS-- ORLÉANOIS--BERRY--POITOU 250
XX.--HOLLAND, GERMANY, SWITZERLAND, AUSTRIA AND HUNGARY-- HOLLAND--SAXONY--GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH)--SWITZERLAND 258
XXI.--DENMARK--SWEDEN--RUSSIA 272
XXII.--ENGLAND TO QUEEN ELIZABETH 285
XXIII.--QUEEN ELIZABETH 299
XXIV.--JAMES I. TO THE RESTORATION.--JAMES I.--CHARLES I.-- THE COMMONWEALTH 315
XXV.--CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER.--CHARLES II.-- JAMES II.--WILLIAM III.--QUEEN ANNE 335
XXVI.--GEORGE I.--GEORGE II. 351
XXVII.--SMUGGLING 358
XXVIII.--GEORGE III. 363
XXIX.--THE LACE MANUFACTURES OF ENGLAND 371
XXX.--BEDFORDSHIRE--BUCKINGHAMSHIRE--NORTHAMPTONSHIRE--SUFFOLK 375
XXXI.--WILTSHIRE AND DORSETSHIRE 395
XXXII.--DEVONSHIRE--HONITON--TROLLY LACE--JAPAN 399
XXXIII.--SCOTLAND 418
XXXIV.--LACE MANUFACTURES OF SCOTLAND 428
XXXV.--IRELAND 435
XXXVI.--BOBBIN NET AND MACHINE-MADE LACE--BOBBIN NET--FRANCE-- BELGIUM--MACHINERY LACE 447